From Hats to Haute Couture: The Evolution of Lanvin, France’s Fashion Pioneer

France dominates the world’s fashion industry. Paris Fashion Week sets the global trends, with brands like Hermès, Chanel, and Saint Laurent calling France home.

One Parisian brand that has been shaping the fashion industry for over 130 years is Lanvin.

The Lanvin brand name, prominently displayed in gold lettering on a dark facade, signals the presence of a luxury fashion establishment (Credit: Andersphoto / Shutterstock)

It’s a Parisian fashion brand as influential as Chanel, becoming one of the first in France to offer both men’s and women’s wear.

Jeanne Lanvin is considered one of the most influential designers in French fashion history, on a level with Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent.

We’re deep diving into the House of Lanvin — France’s oldest continually operating couture fashion house, founded in 1889 — and exploring where Lanvin bags are made. While Hermès (1837) and Louis Vuitton (1854) precede Lanvin chronologically, both began in other craft sectors—saddlery and trunk-making, respectively.

Exploring Lanvin: The Journey of France’s Time-Honored Fashion Pioneer

Lanvin started from humble beginnings in 1889 as a hat shop in central Paris. It was opened by Jeanne Lanvin at the age of 22, at 16 Rue Boissy d’Anglas.

The brand entered a new chapter when it moved to Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore and became the fashion house of Lanvin.

Jeanne Lanvin opened her first hat shop at the age of 22 and later established her eponymous fashion house at Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (Credit: Studio Harcourt / Patrimoine Lanvin / Lanvin)

Every legendary designer has a muse. Jeanne Lanvin found her inspiration closer to home. Jeanne’s daughter, Marguerite, would become her muse, as Jeanne created luxurious clothing for her. It would eventually lead to the launch of her children’s wear range in 1908.

Inspired by her close bond with her daughter, Jeanne Lanvin expanded the brand by opening a dedicated “Young Ladies and Women’s” department, allowing mothers and daughters to shop together for everything from lingerie to eveningwear.

After establishing a name for Lanvin in France, Jeanne expanded the brand’s global presence through several international exhibitions.

The iconic Lanvin logo, featuring a mother and child, was inspired by a 1907 photograph of founder Jeanne Lanvin and her daughter Marguerite, both dressed in matching outfits at a ball

Lanvin has become synonymous with the Art Deco movement after Jeanne Lanvin met decorator Armand-Albert Rateau and reinvented the flagship boutique with a focus on Art Deco design.

In 1924, Lanvin launched its first perfume, presenting it as an essential accessory for every woman’s dressing table. It was one of the first fashion houses to achieve success in perfumery, with the legendary ‘Arpege’ launched in France in 1927.

Lanvin found success in perfumery with the launch of the Lanvin Arpège in 1927

In 1926, Lanvin made history with the introduction of the first made-to-measure clothing range for men. The fashion house entered a new era after Jeanne’s passing in 1946, with her daughter, Marie-Blanche, taking over as President.

Several designers would take on the creative role after Marie-Blanche, remaining true to Lanvin’s Parisian and Art Deco aesthetic.

Bruno Sialelli, who became Lanvin’s youngest Creative Director in 2019, officially exited the brand in April 2023. During his tenure, Sialelli brought a youthful, eclectic energy to the house, aiming to reinterpret Lanvin’s heritage through playful silhouettes and refined Parisian craftsmanship.

In June 2024, Lanvin announced the appointment of Peter Copping as its new Artistic Director. He is known for his work at Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta, and Balenciaga. According to The New York Times, the brand has “been struggling to regain the relevance and success it had enjoyed under its longtime designer Alber Elbaz.”

The Correct Pronunciation of Lanvin: A Guide

Lanvin is pronounced as “lan-vn”. You want to avoid pronouncing Lanvin as the spelling appears. It’s not pronounced as “Laan-vin” but rather “Lan-vn”.

The Craftsmanship Behind Lanvin Products: Origins and Production

Most Lanvin products are still produced in Europe. Product listings on Lanvin’s website for the brand’s handbags and footwear state that they are made in Italy. Previously, most Lanvin bags were made in France.

Lanvin’s ready-to-wear collections also appear to be primarily made in Italy. You can double-check the origin of current Lanvin pieces by checking the brand’s official website.

Lanvin’s bags, footwear, and ready-to-wear collections are mostly made in Italy

The Signature Style of Lanvin: Defining Elements of a Fashion Icon

Lanvin is renowned for being one of the first French fashion houses to establish itself as a ‘one-stop shop’, offering a comprehensive range of products, from lingerie to coats and perfume. It catered to women, children, and eventually men as the first brand to provide made-to-measure menswear in Paris.

Although it also catered to men, Lanvin is synonymous with its delicate, feminine designs and forget-me-not blue packaging, introduced by Alber Elbaz.

The blue color has been synonymous with Lanvin since the cornflower shade was produced exclusively for the brand after Jeanne Lanvin opened her dye factory in 1923.

Lanvin is famous for its delicate feminine designs and forget-me-not blue packaging introduced by Alber Elbaz

One of its most famous design elements is embellishments, along with delicate trims and subtle sequins. Its romanticism of fashion is interlinked with the Art Deco movement of the 1920s, which would find itself at home in the house of Lanvin.

Lanvin produced an alternative to the 1920s flapper dresses, known as the ‘Robes de Style’, with a dropped waist and panneled skirt, inspired by the 18th century.

Lanvin is known for its romantic and feminine designs with pearls, sequins, and bow embellishments

Romanticism is what every collection from Lanvin is known for. The brand relies heavily on romantic and feminine tones, featuring elements such as pearls and bows, as well as rich velvet and luxurious silk. This romanticism has evolved to include a more contemporary take, incorporating tailoring and metallic elements.

Ownership Evolution: The Changing Hands of Lanvin

Lanvin has changed hands several times since the death of Jeanne Lanvin and is currently owned by the Shanghai-based Lanvin Group. It remained within the Lanvin family for several decades until L’Oréal’s takeover in 1996.

The Midland Bank acquired a portion of the company in March 1989, before selling its stake to Orcofi, a French company led by the Vuitton family. L’Oréal would eventually acquire 50% of Lanvin from Orcofi before acquiring the remaining 50% in 1996.

In February 2018, Shanghai-based conglomerate Fosun International paid €120m to become the majority stakeholder in Lanvin, and in 2021, Fosun Fashion Group was renamed Lanvin Group as the company pursues acquisitions to build a global portfolio of luxury brands

Lanvin was acquired from L’Oréal in August 2001 and transitioned into a privately held company under Harmonie S.A., led by Taiwanese media magnate Shaw-Lan Wang. Her leadership ushered in a new creative era for the house, including the celebrated tenure of Alber Elbaz.

In 2018, Chinese conglomerate Fosun International purchased a majority stake in Lanvin for €120 million, signaling its entry into the global luxury market. By October 2021, Fosun rebranded its fashion division as Lanvin Group, with the ambition of building a multi-brand luxury empire to rival LVMH.

Alber Elbaz and Lanvin: An Era of Transformation and Departure

Lanvin has had several Creative Designers at its helm since 1950. Most stayed at Lanvin for a short period, with Alber Elbaz having one of the longest stints at the top job. Elbaz became Lanvin’s Creative Director in 2002 and held the position until 2015.

He joined Lanvin after working at other Parisian fashion brands, including Yves Saint Laurent. Elbaz is widely credited as spearheading the revival of Lanvin during the mid-2000s and early 2010s by focusing on recreating classic styles with a twist.

The late Alber Elbaz became Lanvin’s creative director from 2002 to 2015 (Credit: Jennifer Graylock / INFphoto)

He also expanded Lanvin’s profile by collaborating with contemporary brands, such as Acne Studios and H&M. Elbaz also brought in the iconic forget-me-not blue packaging for Lanvin.

Alber Elbaz left Lanvin in 2015 following disagreements with Shaw-Lan Wang, Lanvin’s major shareholder. He had concerns over the brand’s lack of targeted investment and strategy. Elbaz went on to work with Converse and LeSportsac before launching his brand, AZfashion, in 2019.

Lanvin is a French fashion house with a rich history that deserves to be appreciated on the same level as Chanel, Dior, and Saint Laurent.

Top Quotes About Lanvin: The Timeless French Fashion House That Continues to Inspire

Our logo for Lanvin is a mother and a daughter. I’ve always said, ‘It’s not a lion, and it’s not a horse. It’s a mother and a daughter.’ I find the logo very emotional – Alber Elbaz

One woman told me that every time she wears Lanvin, men fall in love with her. Another told me she wore Lanvin to face her husband’s lawyer because she felt protected. If I can make men fall in love with women and if I can protect women, I think I can die peacefully – Alber Elbaz

I spend my time backstage at the Lanvin shows, and when I come out at the end, all I see are people’s eyes – Alber Elbaz

My favourite designers are Alexander McQueen, YSL, Eskandar, Donna Karan and Lanvin – Anne Robinson

I’ve bought some Lanvin snake-print wedges, so maybe you’ll see me pushing the pram in those and my hotpants! – Abbey Clancy

I love Hermes, Lanvin, Brunello Cucinelli, Reed Krakoff, Alice + Olivia and Nanette Lepore – Kelly Rutherford

Shoes are important, of course. I love my Lanvin sneakers – they go with a lot of things. And then I think a nice bag is great, so you carry your computer or whatever else in style. I’ve been carrying a Tom Ford backpack lately – John Legend