French Fashion Designer Barbara Bui and Her Rock ’n’ Roll, Gender-Blurring Aesthetic

French brands have dominated the fashion industry for decades, setting trends and serving as muses for designers worldwide. Barbara Bui is one of the most popular Parisian brands, launched in 1987 as a luxury ready-to-wear label by Barbara Bui.

The brand is synonymous with its rock music aesthetic, blurring gender norms with silhouettes that are neither feminine nor masculine.

Barbara Bui is the epitome of ‘rock chic’ with a distinctive Parisian feel, taking inspiration from rock stars like Mick Jagger and ‘70s bands like The Beatles.

Barbara Bui attends a Jaeger-LeCoultre event wearing her signature rock-chic look, pairing an embroidered jacket with a draped black blouse and leather trousers (Credit: INFphoto)

Barbara Bui defines her style as being “all about attitude. A woman should feel good in her clothes, not in disguise. She should be comfortable enough to express herself freely, without the constraints of an overly trendy piece.”

Parisian Rock Chic: The Barbara Bui Aesthetic

That confident balance of sharp tailoring and modern femininity hasn’t just resonated on the runway—it’s made Barbara Bui a consistent presence in celebrity wardrobes, from off-duty street style to major red-carpet moments.

Explore this unique blend of rock energy and ultra-femininity by adding Barbara Bui to your closet. We’re sharing everything you need to know about Barbara Bui and answering the most popular questions about the French brand.

From Kabuki to the Runway: Barbara Bui’s Fashion Origins

Barbara Bui was born in Paris to a French mother and a Vietnamese father, with her heritage becoming part of her design DNA.

She had no formal training in art or design; instead, she studied for a master’s degree in English Literature. Bui describes going from writing words to writing “with shapes, colors, and lines.”

Barbara Bui is a French fashion designer who has a Master’s degree in English literature and a background in theater (Credit: Abaca Press / startraksphoto)

From Paris to New York: Building a Global Fashion Presence

She opened her first shop, ‘Kabuki’, in 1983 in partnership with actor William Halimi, focusing primarily on his work, as the shop housed his workshop.

Bui presented her debut collection at Paris Fashion Week in 1987, with her first signature store opening in 1988. The brand presented its first collection at New York Fashion Week in 1999.

Bui’s designs focus on an elegant rock aesthetic, and she was added to the French Federation of Sewing and Fashion Designers in 2003.

Barbara Bui’s Spring/Summer 2010 runway collection highlights her signature elegant rock aesthetic, blending sharp tailoring with sensual, rebellious details (Credit: TONY GUY / startraksphoto)

Barbara won the Crystal Globe for ‘Best Fashion Designer’ from the French Press Association for Arts and Culture in 2013. The self-taught designer explains that “what I express through my clothes is what I would have expressed in my books.”

Barbara Bui launched her first menswear collection in 2019 as a “cool wardrobe for a man that accepts his sensitivity.”

One of the brand’s latest collections focuses on denim, with “every wardrobe piece reinvented with a signature cool-chic look,” maintaining Bui’s classic contemporary silhouettes.

Barbara Bui’s latest collection puts denim at the forefront, delivering the label’s signature cool-chic aesthetic through sharp tailoring and fluid silhouettes

Expanding the Barbara Bui Universe: Menswear, Denim & Accessories

The eponymous brand found almost instant success, launching on the Paris Stock Exchange within a decade of its first store opening.

Barbara Bui launched a range of accessories, including handbags and footwear, in 2000. David Bailey, an acclaimed photographer for bands like the Rolling Stones and the Beatles, oversaw the advertising campaign for the debut collection.

Barbara Bui is synonymous with its rock music aesthetic, reimagining classic men’s pieces with a feminine twist. Its early clientele included musicians and actors who quickly built its public profile.

A decade after presenting her debut collection, Barbara Bui expanded her line to include accessories, such as bags and shoes

Among Bui’s most famous collections is the ‘Atame’ range of silver jewelry inspired by snakes and chains.

The brand has followed the trend of launching collaborations since 2013, working with Chinese artist Huang Zhiang in 2014 and Blenda Eggenschwiler and Caroline Vreeland in 2016.

Music, Masculinity & the Power of Black

70s rock remains the designer’s primary inspiration, reinterpreting popular rock imagery and drawing on musicians like Mick Jagger.

Black is the brand’s dominant color palette as its designs often play with paradoxes, contrasting fabrics, and creating silhouettes that are neither feminine nor masculine.

Rooted in 1970s rock culture, Barbara Bui’s designs draw heavily on black as a dominant color, reinforcing the brand’s dark, rebellious elegance (Credit: Barbara Bui)

Barbara Bui x PSG Women: Fashion Meets Elite Sport

Barbara Bui’s growing cultural relevance was underscored in the 2024–2025 season, when the Parisian fashion house became the official dresser of the Paris Saint-Germain Women’s team—a first in the history of women’s football in France.

Signed for two seasons, the partnership bridges high fashion and elite sport, spotlighting Parisian elegance, modern tailoring, and female empowerment on and off the pitch.

A sleek, tailored wardrobe designed by Barbara Bui outfits the PSG Women’s team in sharp black suiting, blending Parisian elegance with modern power dressing for official appearances (Credit: Barbara Bui)

As part of the collaboration, Bui designed a custom wardrobe for the players’ official travel and public appearances, balancing sharp structure with relaxed confidence. The lineup includes a formal look built around tailored jackets and trousers in wool canvas and black leather, alongside a more casual offering featuring pieces such as perfecto jackets, trellis pants, beige crepe sweatshirts, and T-shirts.

Extending the collaboration beyond the team, Barbara Bui also launched a limited-edition capsule with streetwear label New Era, introducing three exclusive caps—black, bandana print, and ecru—along with fan-facing essentials like T-shirts, hoodies, and fanny packs. Together, the partnership reflects the increasingly dynamic intersection of luxury fashion and women’s professional sports.

Ownership, Leadership & the Brand Today

Barbara Bui S.A. operates as a publicly traded French luxury fashion house, with control firmly in the hands of its founders and key insiders. William Halimi—Barbara Bui’s husband and original business partner—serves as Chairman and Chief Executive Officer and holds a significant ownership stake. At the same time, designer Barbara Bui remains deeply involved in the company as Deputy Chief Executive Officer and a board member.

Together with fellow directors Linda Halimi and David Bihi-Zenou, company insiders collectively control a majority of the shares—approximately 69.3 percent—underscoring the brand’s founder-led structure despite its public listing. The remaining shares are held by public investors, allowing the label to balance market participation with a tightly preserved creative and strategic vision.

Barbara Bui pairs strappy orange heels with a vivid patchwork jacket and matching mini dress, reinforcing her signature bold, rock-chic aesthetic (Credit: Tony DiMaio / Startraksphoto)

Where to Shop Barbara Bui

Barbara Bui opened its first store in Rue Etienne Marcel in Paris in 1988, followed by flagship stores at 50 Avenue Montaigne in Paris, Milan, and New York. The brand is available in 16 cities worldwide.

The brand launched its e-commerce store in 2012 in partnership with Yoox Group. You can also find Barbara Bui stocked online on Barbara Bui and Farfetch.

How to Pronounce Barbara Bui

Barbara Bui is pronounced as “bar-bra bwee”.

Where are Barbara Bui Products Made?

Most Barbara Bui products appear to be made in Europe. The brand’s official website does not list the manufacturing origins of its ready-to-wear, but its handbags and accessories, including footwear, are made in Italy.

It’s worth noting that most Barbara Bui products are made in French sizing.

Barbara Bui moved its production from Asia to Europe in 2011, with its bags, accessories, and footwear being manufactured in Italy

Barbara Bui moved the brand’s production from Asia to Europe in 2011 to boost its sales and quality, even when the brand was making only a small net profit.

The success of Barbara Bui since transitioning to European manufacturing and integrating minimalism into its DNA has strengthened its brand identity.

Price Point & Positioning: How Expensive Is Barbara Bui?

Barbara Bui is a women’s wear and accessories luxury brand. You can expect to pay around $1,000 to $1,500 for Barbara Bui ready-to-wear, while the average Barbara Bui bag retails for $800.

Barbara Bui offers a wide range of laidback, contemporary silhouettes, typically suits and dresses that retail for between $600 and $1,200 per item.

You can also find Barbara Bui pieces at a discount during the brand’s seasonal sale, primarily for ready-to-wear.

Barbara Bui’s ready-to-wear, bags, and footwear typically range from $600 to $1,500, reflecting the brand’s luxury positioning

Embrace your inner ‘70s rock chic with Barbara Bui. The brand has remained true to its Parisian roots with timeless pieces in transitional color palettes that will live in your closet for years to come.

Barbara Bui’s Lasting Impact on Celebrity Style

From off-duty street style to high-profile red carpets, Barbara Bui’s rock-chic aesthetic has consistently resonated with celebrities drawn to its sharp tailoring, modern femininity, and unmistakable Parisian edge. These moments capture how the brand’s attitude-driven designs translate beyond the runway and into real-world style.