There are few boots as emblematic as Dr. Martens. The humble work boot has been around since the 1960s and has since undergone a long journey as a cultural icon for various groups.
Docs have made their mark on the world, from tradesmen to punks and supermodels. Are you interested in investing in a pair?
Buying from official Dr. Martens stores or reputable online retailers significantly reduces the risk of getting fakes. You can make sure yours are real by following the tips below. Here’s how to spot fake Dr. Martens and identify genuine ones:
Step 1: Verifying Authenticity – Inspect the Shoebox
Real Dr. Martens will come in a sturdy cardboard box with a logo on the lid and the side of the box. Ensure the size, font, and placement of the logos are straight and look the same.
One side of the shoe box will have a white label that lists the shoe size, style, and color. Check your shoes to make sure that the details match; the size and product code will be inside the uppers of the shoes.
Dr. Martens shoe boxes have a white label sticker on one side, indicating the shoe size, style, and color of the shoe (Credit: AL Robinson / Shutterstock)
Step 2: Spotting the Genuine Article – The Inspection Sticker
New Dr. Martens often have a yellow inspection sticker, but its presence isn’t a guaranteed indicator of authenticity. While the sticker is a common sight, particularly on boots near the ankle or tongue, there are instances where genuine Docs might lack it
Quality assurance: Spot the small yellow inspection sticker under the tongue of real Dr. Martens (Credit: u / ManufacturerSea3373 / Reddit)
Step 3: Ensuring Authenticity – Insole Branding Check
Some styles may also have the words “Original”, “Made in England”, “Air Cushioned Sole”, or “Bouncing Soles.” Ensure all the words are spelled correctly, and the letters are evenly spaced.
Insole inspection: Look for the Dr. Martens logo and signature ‘Bouncing Soles’ branding
Step 4: Identifying Real Dr. Martens – Outsole Brand Markings
Outsoles have brand markings with cleanly finished embossing. They should say “The Original,” “Dr. Martens Air Cushion Sole,” “Oil Fat Acid Petrol Alkali Resistant.”
Genuine markings: Check for ‘The Original,’ ‘Air Cushion Sole,’ and resistance claims on Dr. Martens’ outsoles (Credit: Seeshooteatrepeat / Shutterstock)
Step 5: Distinguishing Features – Examine the Stitching Quality
Real Dr. Martens has impeccable, high-quality stitching. Every thread should be evenly spaced, straight, tight, and neatly finished.
Craftsmanship in detail: Evenly spaced, straight, and neatly finished stitches on authentic Dr. Martens
Step 6: Additional Authenticity Clues – Spare Laces Inspection
Spare laces are kept in a branded plastic bag with a sealed top. Dr. Martens is known for its excellent quality, so the details on your shoes should look flawless. Misspelled logos, uneven fonts, or poor stitching are telltale signs of fakes.
You may also want to compare the specific features of your shoes with official Dr. Martens product photos or descriptions.
Understanding the Origins: Where Genuine Dr. Martens Are Made
Dr. Martens is often called a quintessentially British brand. Despite having German roots, the brand was acquired by a British shoe manufacturing company in 1960.
This acquisition shifted production to England, where the boots became wildly popular among workers and members of subculture movements alike.
Some Dr. Martens shoe styles are still manufactured in England, but many are now made in Asia (Credit: Mykolastock / Shutterstock)
The brand continued to manufacture its styles in England until 2003 when a period of slow sales prompted the company to begin offshore production.
Some styles are still made in the brand’s English factory, but many are now manufactured in China, Vietnam, Bangladesh, Portugal, Thailand, and Laos. It’s important to note that Dr. Martens’s website only lists the origins of goods made in England.
Signature Detail: The Truth About Dr. Martens’ Yellow Stitching
Vibrant yellow stitching has become a signature part of Dr. Martens’s aesthetic. The brand even trademarked yellow stitching in 2021 following a lawsuit against a Dutch shoe store that had been creating its own version of the iconic combat boot.
Stitching variations: Beyond the iconic yellow – Dr. Martens in black and white threads
Most Dr. Martens shoes feature yellow stitching, but some have black or white stitching for those who prefer a monochromatic look.
Exploring Materials: The Various Leathers of Dr. Martens
Dr. Martens is known for using high-quality leather that ages beautifully. The brand’s most distinctive type of leather is Quilon leather, an ultra-smooth variety with a “haircell” finish. This gives the leather a fine, textured print that creates a unique surface appearance.
Quilon leather was developed in 2007 but was based on the traditional Dr. Martens leather used in the 1960s and 1970s. It has a slightly worn, vintage-esque appearance, which is perfect for creating a grungy feel.
It’s quite stiff and can take several weeks to break in, but the end result is worth it. Quilon leather is typically used in the brand’s Made in England collection.
Although Quilon leather has become Dr. Martens’ signature, they also use a wide variety of other leather types:
1. Aniline Leather: The Natural and Clear Waxed Finish
Natural leather with a clear wax finish that displays the original grain.
Elegance redefined: Spence Flared Heel Chelsea boots in smooth full-grain semi-aniline leather
2. Antique Temperley Leather: Glossy Two-Tone Elegance
Argentinian leather with a glossy, two-tone finish.
Vintage appeal: 1460 boots showcasing the glossy green Antique Temperley leather
3. Boanil Brush Leather: Hand-Applied Glossy Sophistication
Brushed, hand-applied, two-tone leather that creates an ultra-glossy finish.
Sophisticated shine: The 1461 loafers in gleaming Boanil Brush leather
4. Brando Leather: The Vintage, Waxy Appeal
Waxy, full-grain leather that creates a vintage, worn-in look.
Rugged charm: Dante leather lace-up shoes in the vintage-styled Brando leather
5. Burnished Servo Leather: The Depth of Natural Elegance
Natural leather with a clear wax finish. It can be burnished to create visual depth.
Subtle elegance: Emmeline boots in the distinctively burnished gray Servo leather
6. Carpathian Leather: Flexible, Oily, and Naturally Textured
A soft, flexible, full-grain oily leather with a naturally tumbled texture that needs regular conditioning.
Classic redesigned: The iconic 8-Eye 1460 boots in tan Carpathian leather
7. Crazy Horse Leather: Rugged and Worn-In Aesthetics
Heavyweight, full-grain leather that looks and feels worn in.
Rustic and ready: Combs utility boots in durable brown Crazy Horse leather
8. Danio Leather: Soft, Pliable, and Comfort-First
Extremely soft nappa leather that is thin, pliable, and comfortable.
Sleek comfort: Jered boots featuring the ultra-soft black Danio leather
9. Hardlife Leather: Durably Supple with a Waxed Finish
Supple and extra-durable heavyweight leather created with waxes and oils.
The iconic 1460 boots in black smooth Hardlife Leather
10. Kaya Leather: The Unique Nubuck Variety
Nubuck variety that leaves the small, natural fibers visible.
Dr. Martens’ Jadon platform boots in Kaya Nubuck Leather
11. Patent Leather: Smooth and High-Gloss Elegance
Leather with an extremely smooth and glossy coating.
The 1460 lace-up boots in Patent leather
12. Petrol Leather: Italian Craftsmanship with a Unique Finish
Italian-made leather with a finish that resembles oil floating oil water.
Dr. Martens Langston boots in Petrol Leather
13. Temperley Leather: The Unfinished Argentinian Classic
Unfinished Argentinian leather.
The Wilde boots by Dr. Martens in oak Temperley Leather
14. Tuscan Leather: The Unfinished, Vegetable-Tanned Choice
Unfinished, vegetable-tanned leather from Tuscany.
The Torriano oxfords in Tuscan Leather
15. Virginia Leather: Soft Napa with a Milled Finish
Napa leather with a milled surface finish.
The 1490 10-eye boot crafted from Virginia Leather
Dr. Martens has also had a vegan range since 2011. They use a synthetic polyurethane material that is more breathable and less toxic to produce than PVC.
Doc Martens vs Dr. Martens
You might be wondering if there is a difference between the two names. Both are real; one is simply a nickname. Dr. Martens is the original brand name derived from the founder, Dr. Klaus Martens. Over time, younger fans playfully shortened the brand to Doc Martens or Docs.
You can call the brand whatever you like, but genuine shoes always have the full Dr. Martens logo.