Zendaya’s Hidden Heels: The Strategy Behind Her Archival Bob Mackie & Valentino TIME 100 Looks

Zendaya’s trajectory from a Disney Channel lead to a fixture of prestige cinema is often cited as a blueprint for a modern Hollywood career.

By the early 2020s, her work in the Euphoria series and the Dune franchise had solidified her status as a creative force, earning her a spot on the 2022 TIME 100 list of the year’s most influential people.

During this period, she shared the honor with a diverse group of global figures, including Mary J. Blige, Apple CEO Tim Cook, actor Simu Liu, and Prime Minister Mia Mottley.

For her TIME cover feature, Zendaya wore a crimson Valentino ensemble. While the silhouette mimicked a traditional gown, the outfit was composed of a voluminous ruffled cape paired with a strapless bra top and tailored trousers.

The look, curated by her long-time image architect Law Roach, reflected her preference for unconventional red-carpet architecture.

She accessorized with Bulgari high jewelry and a sharp, braided hairstyle that allowed the bold color of the Valentino set to lead the aesthetic.

Zendaya attends the 2022 TIME 100 Gala, celebrating this year’s 100 Most Influential People, held at Frederick P. Rose Hall at Lincoln Center on June 8, 2022 (Credit: Jennifer Graylock / INSTARimages)

For the gala celebrating this year’s 100 Most Influential People, the American actress led the glamour in an archival Bob Mackie gown from the Fall 1998 collection.

The teal-and-turquoise silk faille, offset with rich emerald velvet, forms a striking geometric composition, while the strapless, sharply pointed bodice—cut into a deep V—introduces a controlled note of sensuality to the otherwise sculptural, polished silhouette.

While the floor-sweeping hemlines of both her archival Bob Mackie gown and the Valentino trousers largely obscured her footwear, the choice to prioritize silhouette over “shoe moments” was a hallmark of her 2020s red-carpet strategy.

By opting for hidden heels, Roach and Zendaya allowed the intricate color-blocking of the 1998 couture and the monochromatic intensity of the Valentino red to remain the singular focus. This “stealth” approach to footwear ensured that the proportions of the vintage garments remained historically accurate and visually uninterrupted.

Zendaya commands the red carpet in an archival Bob Mackie Fall 1998 strapless gown, its sculptural teal-and-emerald color blocking delivering high-impact drama—while discreet, hidden heels preserve the gown’s uninterrupted couture silhouette and elongated line (Credit: Jennifer Graylock / INSTARimages)

Keeping things luxurious, Law Roach added a selection of Bulgari High Jewelry to Zendaya’s look.

She wore a pair of diamond earrings, a coordinating collarbone necklace with over 49 carats of diamonds, and three diamond rings set in platinum.

Her brunette locks were parted in the middle and tucked behind her ears, while her makeup included smoky turquoise eyeshadow and nude lipstick.

Zendaya wears her brunette tresses down and highlights her eyes with coordinating turquoise eyeshadow (Credit: Jennifer Graylock / INSTARimages)

In her TIME 100 profile, Zendaya was described as “an autonomous creative force herself” by Dune director Denis Villeneuve.

He added that she’s “A cultural icon in the making. A person driven by pure inspiration, empathy, and respect for her craft, who uses authenticity as a new superpower. She seems fearless, her roots run deep, and I love that she still laughs like a kid. Zendaya is the future. And there is nothing more comforting to me. This is only the beginning.”

Zendaya with Dune co-stars Rebecca Ferguson, Timothée Chalamet, Oscar Isaac, and director Denis Villeneuve at the Dune photocall during the 78th Venice International Film Festival (Credit: Venezia2020 / IPA / INSTARimages)

Where Zendaya’s Shoe Story Becomes Visible Again

At the TIME 100 Gala, Zendaya and Law Roach deliberately let silhouette lead—using sweeping hemlines and archival couture to obscure the footwear and preserve the integrity of each look. But that restraint is only one side of her style identity.

Across premieres, awards shows, and press tours, her shoe choices become far more explicit—sharpening proportions, anchoring bold color stories, and, at times, defining the entire look.