New Balance 550: The Retro Basketball Sneaker Making a Modern Comeback

Everything old is new again. It’s one of the main rules of fashion, and it couldn’t be truer than in the sneaker industry.

The New Balance 550 is the ultimate comeback kid, getting a refresh from its original ’90s look. It evolved from a basketball shoe to an all-around sneaker that offers style and performance.

While the New Balance 550s were discontinued initially in the early 2000s, they’ve come back with a bang. These sleek sneakers offer the best of both worlds—comfort and performance — in a versatile, everyday silhouette.

The New Balance 550 returns with modern updates and versatile colorways — blending retro basketball roots with contemporary street-style appeal

Celebrities like Laura Harrier, Kendall Jenner, and Hailey Bieber have all stepped out in New Balance 550s. It’s not just the simple silhouette that makes the New Balance 550s a best-seller. The style has been at the forefront of a seemingly endless stream of collaborations.

We’re sharing everything you need to know about the New Balance 550 sneakers, including how to style them and sizing information.

New Balance 550: From 1989 Court Classic to 2020 Style Revival

The New Balance 550 first hit the market in 1989 as part of the brand’s basketball collection. Its minimalistic silhouette and diverse colorways gave it a unique look.

The shoe was discontinued in the early 2000s when New Balance shifted its focus from basketball shoes to running shoes.

The New Balance 550 made its debut on the market in 1989 as a basketball shoe with a minimalistic silhouette and diverse colors (Credit: Valdis Skudre / Shutterstock)

New Balance first revived the 550 silhouette in 2020 through a buzz-worthy collaboration with Aimé Leon Dore, reimagining the archival basketball sneaker with premium suede and leather accents. What began as a limited-edition drop quickly snowballed into a full-scale comeback, with the style gaining mainstream traction and wider releases in the years that followed, amid the height of the athleisure movement.

The 550’s success was immediate, and limited-edition sneaker drops quickly followed, including Rich Paul, Joe Freshgoods, and Auralee. Each collaboration added its own unique twist to the classic 550 design, further cementing its status as a must-have sneaker.

The style became an instant must-have amongst fashion influencers and celebrities as a minimalist yet versatile option that will slot into your everyday closet.

The New Balance 550 was discontinued in the early 2000s and was brought back in 2020 as part of a collaboration with NYC fashion and lifestyle brand Aime Leon Dore

The $110 to $120 price point makes the New Balance 550s a splurge purchase that won’t break the bank. It’s an alternative to classic ‘dad shoes’ like the Adidas Samba and the Nike Air Force 1.

Why Everyone’s Obsessed With the New Balance 550

The New Balance 550 sneakers have been a must-have ever since their re-release in 2020.

These comeback sneakers skyrocketed in popularity in 2022 thanks to celebrities and influencers like Matilda Djerf, Hailey Bieber, and the Hadid sisters. The 550s have now become New Balance’s most popular sneaker.

In January 2022, Hailey Bieber’s Pilates look took the “groutfit” trend — that’s fashion speak for a head-to-toe gray ensemble — to new heights of quiet luxury.

Hailey Bieber elevates a monochrome gray “groutfit” with a Prada puffer, Alo leggings, and New Balance x Aimé Leon Dore 550 sneakers while heading to Pilates in Los Angeles (Credit: BauerGriffin / INSTARimages / Cover Images)

What makes the New Balance 550s a best-selling style is their classic silhouette, comfort, and budget-friendly price point. $120 for an everyday sneaker puts it at a more attainable price point for a celebrity-approved style than most other brands.

While the style is available in its basic color options as part of New Balance’s permanent collection, its frequent collaborations make it a must-have for any sneaker collector. Aime Leon Dore has released several 550 sneakers that have resold for more than double their sticker price.

The 550s are popular because they blend a vintage look with the basketball aesthetic, rolling them up into a sleek, minimalist silhouette you can reach for every day.

The New Balance 550 is New Balance’s best-selling style, thanks to its classic silhouette, comfort, and budget-friendly price point

Everything You Need to Know About the New Balance 550

Before buying New Balance 550 sneakers, you want to get familiar with the style and the most common questions about the 550s.

How to Style the New Balance 550 Sneakers

The 550 sneakers offer a timeless silhouette while still being a trendsetting style adored by influencers and celebrities alike.

The versatility of the 550s means you can wear them with anything, from your post-workout gym gear to a knitted dress or denim jeans.

The New Balance 550 sneakers pair effortlessly with everything from casual denim and minimalist tees to chic knit dresses — offering a clean, sporty twist on everyday style

The key to styling the 550s is to let them be the classic piece that ties the rest of your outfit together. Style them with high-top socks for the ultimate vintage-inspired look.

Are the New Balance 550 Sneakers Discontinued?

The original New Balance 550 sneakers were sold from the early 1990s to the early 2000s before they were discontinued. The current 550 sneakers were re-released in 2020 and are among New Balance’s best-selling styles.

The New Balance 550 was discontinued in the early 2000s when New Balance shifted its focus from basketball shoes to running shoes

Why Are Some New Balance 550s So Rare?

Certain New Balance 550 sneakers are rare because they’re launched as limited-edition styles as part of capsule collections and collaborations.

While you’ll find classic 550 styles as part of New Balance’s permanent collection, the seasonal and limited-edition versions of the 550 sneakers are known to sell out with a high resale value.

New Balance 550s that are launched as part of collaborations with other brands and artists, such as the Aimé Leon Dore x New Balance 550 (L) and the Rich Paul x New Balance 550 (R), are usually limited-edition styles

The 550s are quickly becoming a popular alternative to Nike Air Jordans for sneaker collectors who want an accessible price point to kickstart or grow their collection.

Do New Balance 550s Run Tight?

The New Balance 550 sneakers are primarily known for a narrow fit, particularly around the toe box, which is narrower than that of most sneakers.

While the shoes will typically run true to size, it depends on the width of your feet. We recommend sizing up ½ a size if you have wider feet.

New Balance 550s are narrow around the toe box, but most of the classic 550s come in both a standard and wide width, giving you more fitting options (Credit: Style Runner)

Online reviews of the New Balance 550 sneakers also note that heel slippage can occur, even when the toe box feels too narrow. Most classic 550s are available in standard and wide-width sizes, giving you more options.

When Did the New Balance 550 Originally Release?

The first New Balance 550 sneaker debuted in 1989, before the initial collections were released in the early 1990s. The style only had a few runs before entering New Balance’s archives at the start of the 2000s.

It was reintroduced in 2020 as part of a limited-edition collection, before its popularity led to the 550s returning to New Balance’s permanent sneaker range.

How Do New Balance 550s Fit Compared to Nike Air Force 1s?

If you’re a fan of the Nike Air Force sneakers, you’ll probably want to pick up a pair of 550s. You shouldn’t expect the 550s to fit like your favorite Air Force sneakers.

The 550 has a narrower fit than the AF1s. You’ll want to try on a pair of New Balance 550s before ordering, especially if you have wider feet.

The Nike Air Force 1 (left) features a noticeably roomier fit compared to the sleeker, narrower New Balance 550 (right), making the 550 better suited for those who prefer a snug, streamlined feel

Are you looking to upgrade your everyday style? Pick up a pair of New Balance 550 sneakers to walk in the shoes of some of the most stylish celebrities!

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