For over seven decades, L’Air du Temps has enchanted the masses with its delicate floral scent, yet Nina Ricci is an often overlooked luxury brand.
The self-taught designer was a powerhouse on the early 20th-century Parisian fashion scene. Celebrity fans include Penélope Cruz, Kim Kardashian, Kylie Minogue, Keri Russell, Gemma Arterton, Lady Gaga, Clémence Poésy, Pom Klementieff, Joan Smalls, and Florence Pugh.
Nina Ricci perfume for sale in a luxury shopping mall store (Credit: Radu Bercan / Shutterstock)
At one point, she dressed more women in Paris than any other major brand, and several of her fragrances have reached icon status. So, who is the woman behind the bottle? Learn about Nina Ricci, the unsung hero of Parisian couture and fragrances, below!
Nina Ricci: The Self-Made Icon of Parisian Elegance
Maria Nielli, later known as Nina, was born in Turin, Italy, in 1883 and moved to Paris at 12. Shortly after relocating, she began her fashion career with a dressmaking apprenticeship.
Maria changed her name to Nina, a childhood nickname, after marrying her husband, Luigi Ricci, in her late teens.
Olivia Culpo wearing a white Nina Ricci cape dress with a Salvatore Ferragamo Gancio bag, Casadei heels, Maria Black jewelry for the Nina Ricci show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2018/2019 on March 2, 2018, in Paris, France (Credit: Medias / ABACA / INSTARimages)
The Riccis had a son named Robert when Nina was 23. He would become his mother’s biggest fan and greatest business partner.
Nina and Robert always had a close relationship, as the young mother became a widow at 27 and had to raise Robert alone.
Nina’s career kicked off after joining the House of Raffin in 1908, where she worked for 24 years. Nina was given full reign of her department within the house.
Actress Imogen Poots in a light-blue Nina Ricci Spring 2014 chiffon-and-lace dress and with white Givenchy platform sandals at the Los Angeles premiere of ‘Need For Speed’ at TCL Chinese Theatre on March 6, 2014, in Hollywood, California (Credit: Tony DiMaio / Startraksphoto)
She created her designs and grew her clientele, mainly upper-middle-class women. Nina was affectionately known as ‘The White Lady’ within the industry, as she was often spotted in a white dress and pearls that matched her curly white hair.
Eventually, she started a side business selling her designs to clients. Still, her son encouraged her to create her own fashion house following the death of Monsieur Raffin in the early 1930s.
Nina Ricci’s debut fragrance, Coeur Jolie, made its debut in 1945, and her most famous perfume, L’Air du Temps, was released in 1948 (Credit: Kapustin Igor / Shutterstock)
The Ricci Dynasty: A Story of Family, Fashion, and Fragrance
Nina Ricci was established in 1932 under an agreement where Nina held complete creative control, and her son Robert managed business operations, pioneering the first mother-son partnership in couture.
Nina Ricci’s designs have always been associated with romance, elegance, and femininity.
The dreamy couture and ready-to-wear collections are filled with soft silhouettes, sensual fabrics, muted color palettes, and pretty details like ruffles and pleats.
Kim Kardashian surprised everyone in a stunning Nina Ricci gown at the 2011 InStyle/Warner Brothers Golden Globes Party at The Beverly Hilton Hotel on January 15, 2011, in Beverly Hills, California (Credit: Norman Scott / Startraksphoto)
The house often features gentle, nature-inspired motifs like doves, apples, and flowers. Nina became famous for her hands-on approach and advanced technical skills.
She preferred to work directly on mannequins rather than begin with sketches, and she had an excellent talent for selecting the most beautiful fabrics for her garments.
Actress Allison Williams in a blue lace and viscose cady Nina Ricci dress at the 8th Annual Blossom Ball benefiting the Endometriosis Foundation of America hosted by EFA Founders Padma Lakshmi And Tamer Seckin, MD at Pier 60 on April 19, 2016, in New York City (Credit: Fernando Lucena / Startraksphoto)
Nina’s design prowess was easily on par with other legends of the time, like Vionnet and Lanvin. Still, her lower price points and bourgeois clientele often made fashion magazines overlook her designs.
A Different Approach to Couture
Nina and Robert made an excellent team with Nina’s talent and Robert’s innovative business approach. While other couture labels catered to aristocrats, Nina Ricci’s main clientele were members of the upper-middle class.
Nicole Kidman in a sequined Nina Ricci dress and Brian Atwood sandals at the Women In Film 2015 Crystal + Lucy Awards at the Hyatt Regency Century Plaza on June 16, 2015, in Los Angeles, California (Credit: Tony DiMaio / Startraksphoto)
Nina Ricci’s client base was larger than many of her counterparts, primarily because it extended beyond the aristocracy.
The fashion house was one of the first luxury labels to introduce a more affordable intermediary line targeted at a younger clientele, a practice that most contemporary designer labels still use to expand their client base.
She died on November 29, 1970, at 87, in Paris, France. Her son, Robert, passed away in 1988. Nina Ricci remained a family-run business until 1998 when Robert’s son-in-law sold the company to the Spanish beauty and fashion group Puig.
Actress Reese Witherspoon in a Nina Ricci dress at the 79th Annual Academy Awards held at the Kodak Theatre on February 25, 2007, in Hollywood, California (Credit: Jen Lowery / Startraksphoto)
The brand has been a part of the Spanish fashion and beauty group Puig ever since, alongside fellow prestigious labels Jean Paul Gaultier, Paco Rabanne, and Christian Louboutin.
Nina Ricci has appointed several talented creative designers, including Olivier Theyskens and Peter Copping, since joining Puig.
Creating Fantasy in the World of Fragrance
Nina Ricci’s first perfume, Coeur de Joie, was released in 1946 after Robert decided that fragrances were the key to international expansion.
Emily Ratajkowski in a plaid suit at the Nina Ricci show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2018 on September 29, 2017, in Paris, France (Credit: Aurore Marechal / ABACA / INSTARimages)
The scent was met with moderate success, but two years later, Robert’s dreams of global fragrance fame would come true.
The best-selling fragrance L’Air du Temps catapulted Nina Ricci to fame in 1948. Meaning “the spirit of the times,” the fragrance was created to capture the optimistic mood of the post-war era.
It was the first spicy-floral fragrance to be created in the history of High Perfumery, with notes of gardenia, carnations, centifolia rose, Grasse jasmine, Mysore sandalwood, and iris.
Taiwanese actress An Yi Xuan flaunts her legs at the Nina Ricci show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2015 on September 25, 2014, in Paris, France (Credit: Alban Wyters / Abaca / Startraksphoto)
The innovative fragrance felt like the essence of spring encapsulated. Nina Ricci fans loved the whimsical curved bottle, handcrafted with Lalique crystal and topped off with a beautiful dove stopper.
The label is also famous for 2006’s Nina, known for its adorable apple-shaped bottle.
The sweet and sensual fragrance combines citrus and floral scents, featuring notes of lemon, lime, gardenia, toffee apple, cedarwood, and white musk.
Actress Jessica Chastain in a Nina Ricci Pre-Fall 2014 cypress green silk crepe gown at the 19th Annual Critics’ Choice Movie Awards at Barker Hangar on January 16, 2014, in Santa Monica, California (Credit: Sara De Boer / Startraksphoto)
All Nina Ricci fragrances are still made in France as a tribute to the label’s headquarters and dedication to quality.
A New Era of Accessibility
The classic fashion house is undergoing big changes following the departure of creative directors Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh in January 2022.
Nina Ricci has been downsizing collections, with their fall 2021 collection featuring 30% fewer looks than usual. These new, smaller collections also come with a significant price drop of over 50% to become even more accessible.
Anne Hathaway in a sequined Nina Ricci Spring 2013 dress and Stella McCartney shoes at the Museum Of Moving Image Salutes Hugh Jackman at Cipriani Wall Street on December 11, 2012, in New York City (Credit: Adam Nemser / Startraksphoto)
Perhaps the most significant change is Nina Ricci’s shift to a digital-first strategy. It’s not a surprising change in today’s marketplace. However, fashion lovers were still shocked to hear about the brand’s 2021 closure of Nina Ricci’s flagship boutique on Avenue Montaigne in Paris.
Harris Reed was appointed Nina Ricci’s new creative director in September 2022. Known for his gender-fluid designs and identity, the British-American designer’s appointment was met with excitement within the fashion industry.
Nina Ricci Showdown: Diane Kruger vs. Amy Adams – Who Wore It Best?
Nina Ricci is a favorite among Hollywood’s most stylish, namely Amy Adams and Diane Kruger.
In June 2013, red-haired beauty Amy Adams showed up at the ‘Man of Steel’ world premiere in a strapless black gown by the French fashion house.
Amy Adams coordinating perfectly with her bold red lipstick and beautifully styled red hair in dramatic finger waves (Credit: Adriana M. Barraza / FayesVision / WENN / Ivan Nikolov)
The gown is from the Fall 2013 collection and was styled with Casadei heels and Tiffany and Co. jewelry. Here’s a closer look:
Amy Adams captivated attention in a stunning mermaid-style satin gown by Nina Ricci (Credit: Adriana M. Barraza / FayesVision / WENN / Ivan Nikolov)
At the Alice Tully Hall in New York City, Amy was joined by co-stars Henry Cavill, Laurence Fishburne, and Russel Crowe.
Amy Adams in black Nina Ricci dress at the world premiere of ‘Man of Steel’ at Alice Tully Hall in Lincoln Center in New York City on June 10, 2013 (Credit: Adriana M. Barraza / FayesVision / WENN / Ivan Nikolov)
Meanwhile, in Los Angeles, style star Diane Kruger (accompanied by long-time beau Joshua Jackson) was also spotted wearing a Nina Ricci creation at the 2013 Critic’s Choice Television Awards at the Beverly Hilton Hotel.
Diane Kruger attended the 2013 Critics’ Choice Television Awards in a black strapless Nina Ricci gown from the Fall 2013 collection (Credit: Adriana M. Barraza / FayesVision / WENN / Ivan Nikolov)
Aside from her awesome red lips, Diane accessorized with matching Manolo Blahnik heels and a Jason Wu clutch.
Diane Kruger chose red Manolo Blahnik pumps, coordinating with her lipstick for a striking red accent at the Broadcast Television Journalists Association’s (BTJA) 3rd Annual Critics’ Choice Television Awards at the Beverly Hilton Hotel in Beverly Hills on June 10, 2013 (Credit: Adriana M. Barraza / FayesVision / WENN / Ivan Nikolov)
So, which star do you think wore her Nina Ricci gown better?
Diane Kruger and Amy Adams shine in Nina Ricci, sparking a stylish debate on who wore the designer best at their respective glamorous events (Credit: Adriana M. Barraza / FayesVision / WENN / Ivan Nikolov)
Scroll down for more dresses designed by Nina Ricci. Which of these beautiful creations is your favorite?
Nina Ricci Lace Ruffle Front Tier Dress, $859
Nina Ricci Ruffle Dress, $2,389
Nina Ricci Long-Sleeve Seam Detail Lace Back Dress, $3,150
Nina Ricci Fitted Dress, $1,833
Nina Ricci Stretch-Faille Brooch Dress, $1,365